Need more motivation to get to Peru than just Machu Picchu? Colca Canyon is where it’s at. It’s the perfect warm-up adventure before the long haul on the Inca Trail.

Colca Canyon is one of the deepest canyons in the world reaching a depth of over 13,000 feet, more than twice that of the Grand Canyon in the United States. Situated in southern Peru, Colca Canyon is often overshadowed by the more famous nearby tourist attractions of Machu Picchu and Lake Titicaca; however, it should not be forgotten on the Peru to-do list especially for active, outdoor lovers. Arequipa, a colonial city with cobblestone streets surrounded by cone-shaped volcanoes, is the best jumping off point to do the Colca Canyon Trek.

Trekking is by far the best way to experience the canyon’s grandeur and village life, although it is no easy hike. Guided group tours of the Colca region can be reserved a day or two in advance at any of the numerous tour agencies on Santa Catalina or Jerusalén streets in Arequipa. The number of tour agencies is completely overwhelming so make sure to research ahead of time and seek recommendations beforehand. Prices vary wildly and some tour company offices are closed on Sundays. If guided tours aren’t your thing, there is also the do-it-yourself option to viewing the canyon. And if trekking really isn’t your thing, there is always the stay-in-the-bus option.

The Options

Several options to tour the Colca region exist depending on how much time you have, what you’re looking for, your fitness level, and your accommodation needs. Most common are the guided group tours for 2-days/1-night or 3-days/2-nights which both include steep hikes into and out of the canyon. Typical group sizes can vary between two to ten people. There’s also the same day option consisting of a bus tour around the edge of the canyon stopping at scenic viewpoints. Then the DIY option incorporates public transportation, a map, and as many hiking days as you can spare.

We originally thought the 3-day trek would offer more hiking miles than the 2-day; however, we soon learned that they cover the same distance just with more and less down time. For a mere ten bucks more we figured it was actually cheaper to spend another night on the trail than it would be to stay in Arequipa… and we had time.

We also considered foregoing the guide and package deal altogether for the Do-It-Yourself option. We liked the maximum flexibility in case we fell in love with the canyon and wanted to stay a week. The trail is easily navigable and there are plenty of guides to ask directions if you really get lost. It’s fairly easy to find small hospitable villages that offer hostel-style accommodation and nourishing food, although most will not have electricity or hot water. We found a good DIY website that gives more details for the self-guided option. In addition, we thought it might save us money; however, when you factor in the tour company’s discounts on accommodation and food, the price was comparable. With the added bonus of not worrying about finding a place to sleep or getting lost on the trail, we decided to go with a package deal.

What We Did

In the end, we decided on the 3-day/2-night trek with Eco-Tours and booked it two days in advance when we knew the weather would be nice. A private bus picked us up around 3:30 AM from our hostel to start a very long day one. After a bone-chilling ride over a 16,000-foot mountain pass, our bus group stopped in Chivay to eat breakfast in sleepy silence and drink lots of coca tea to help with the altitude. The hike begins outside of the small, dusty village of Cabanaconde, at about 10,800 feet above sea level. From there it is a looooong four-hour decent (3,200 foot elevation change) down to the Colca River at the bottom of the canyon. We arrived on shaky Jell-O legs for a much-deserved lunch in the tiny village (population 20) of San Juan de Chuccho.

Here is where the 2-day and 3-day treks split. The 2-dayers continue hiking for a few hours more while the 3-dayers take a nap and relax until dinnertime. The second day consisted of a mellow, relatively flat three-hour hike through small canyon communities living off the land until reaching Sangalle (also known as “The Oasis”) for a relaxing swim and sunbathe. The third day is when your muscles have to wake up at 4:00 AM to beat the sun for a 3,700-foot vertical climb (four hours) back to Cabanaconde.

In addition, the tour package included stops at the Cruz del Condor for giant bird watching, at the impressive Pre-Inca and Inca terraces, Chivay hot springs, the highest pass on the trip to use the highest toilet in Peru (16,000 feet), plus a stop for llama viewing. Keep in mind you may miss out on these tourist stops if you choose the DIY option.

Transit Trekker Tips

• If you have time and the physical ability, do the 3-day/2-night trek.
• Bring plenty of snacks for hiking and the evenings. There are options to buy along the way but they are pricey.
• Take good hiking shoes that you’ve already broken in (very blister prone hike).
• Make sure your pack is not too heavy – do you really need six T-shirts for three days?
• Don’t forget your headlamp for midnight bathroom trips and early morning hiking.
• Bring ample cash and definitely a map if you’re going without a guide.
• Wear warm clothes on the bus – it’s cold at 4:00 AM at 16,000 feet in a non-heated bus.
• 3-dayers bring something to do on down time like cards, book, etc.